Well, now is a perfect time to catch up on blogging about my Wainwright experiences, isn't it?
I've no excuses not to sit down and write and it really is nice to relive some our Lake District trips whilst we cannot get there in person right now.
Back in February 2019, we headed up to the Lakes for a long weekend during half term. It turned out to be a super special trip (more in the next post).
Fully committed to Wainwright bagging, we based ourselves at Brathay Lodge in Ambleside, a B&B we now use regularly and can highly recommend. As we'd already hiked quite a few of the fells surrounding Ambleside, we decided to explore the walks around nearby Grasmere, starting with Helm Crag.
Like Catbells, you cannot miss Helm Crag. It rises up sharply out of Grasmere at the side of the A591 and is topped by some very craggy-looking rocks, affectionately named the Howitzer and The Lion and the Lamb.
There are other local names for these rocks too (Old Woman playing the Organ is another) and, depending on the direction you view them in, these names make plenty of sense, or no sense at all. This is the Lion (the Lamb is a smaller rock in front of it) seen from the summit.
I get this one. It looks a bit like a seated lion with a shaggy mane looking out towards the left of the picture.
Below is the Howitzer, the true summit of the crag. Now that I have looked up what a howitzer is on wikipedia (it's a cannon), I get this one too.
I also think it looks like a hook-nosed woman in a bonnet looking up at the sky. But that's not as catchy as the Howitzer.
I'm pretty sure that you can see anything in a pile of rocks if you wanted to, depending on the mood you are in and how vibrant your imagination is. If I told you it was called the Lady Gaga's Meat Dress, you could probably agree with me eventually too.
Helm Crag isn't a big fell, at only 405m (1329ft). It's a nice easy hike straight out of Grasmere that starts by following the Easedale Road.
Once you've passed the front of the Lancrigg hotel and gawped at all the residents having their breakfasts or afternoon teas, you'll pass through a lovely little woodland area with plenty of hand-drawn signs to show you where to go.
Soon, the path bears off the the right up a set of steep steps that follow a drystone wall. I reckon this is the most strenuous part of the hike. Honest.
At the top of the steps, you'll probably fancy a break and to pose for photos ...
Not sure why I look so dazed. Also, if you have a large amount of hair then do take a hair tie with you on all your adventures. I cannot count the number of times I've felt 1000% more out of breath and anxious on strenuous ascents because my hair is in my face, nose, mouth, ears, eyes and heats up my head as if I were wearing 10 wooly hats. I've got quite good at walking without fully being able to see where I am going. Never had this problem when I shaved my head.
The next stage of the walk zigzags up through some rugged(ish) terrain, requiring a little scrambling here and there. Nothing too difficult, but perhaps harder when wet and slippery.
Let's just take a moment here to say how lovely the Lakes look in winter. I'm not a fan of six-foot ferns all over the place. I like it when they have died back and blanket the landscape in an incredible burnt-orange hue.
As you ascend along the clear path, the views start to open up to the north and west. Below you can make out the route up the side of Sour Milk Ghyll to Easedale Tarn, which we would tackle the following day.
Please also note that I now have hiking poles because, you know, shit's getting serious and I'm a consummate professional (not).
The path opens out onto a grassy plateau as you near the summit and the final push is a lovely scramble-y affair, again nothing too strenuous but enough to keep you interested.
Also, take some time to stop and check out the fabulous views of Grasmere (if you're lucky).
The first summit rock you come to will be the Lion and the Lamb. And even if you're knackered, you just can't leave until you've scrambled up to sit on the lion's back à la Pete ...
It's a little bit further along a flat but rocky path to get to the true summit of the fell and the Howitzer.
The views to the north show how the path continues along a ridgeline up to Gibson Knott and, eventually, Steel Fell.
Unless you want to carry on for what is a pretty decent day's walk along the ridge and round, I recommend descending the way you came and, once back in Grasmere, treat yourself to an incredible pancake or two at our favourite lunch spot, Emma's Deli.
I'd give Helm Crag a solid 10/10. It's become one of my favourite Wainwrights for its balance of modest height and stunning views and it's crag-factor of 5 (that means nothing).
Until next time ...
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